Thursday, 19 June 2014

1848 Jacket Sewalong: Quick post on problems with the pattern

By now, it's clear I'm late with the kacabajka. It's OK. I've finished the stays, I'll finish the kacabajka later. I'm now in the muslin-possibly-lining stage.

And I have noticed some things about the pattern that you should know of if you're planning on working on it (if you've already been working on it in the background, you probably already know). It's things that I may have to eventually rework the whole pattern for, but for now, it's warnings.

I've already noticed that the front pattern is too short in the shoulder-to-bust measurement, so I had to add to the shoulder / front armscye, and therefore also to the sleeve.
This, I think, has partly to do with my alterations of the pattern - the original wearer had a much shorter torso than me or your average modern pattern.

More importantly, the sleeve pattern as it was was already wrong - the seam did not match up; one side was about 2,5 cm shorter than the other - when you look at the piece, the left side is a bit too short under the elbow.
This is a problem that must already be present in the draft in the book, because I followed it closely.

I wanted to include pictures, but I guess it's better to put this out as soon as possible, even without pictures, than wait until I have good pictures to include...


  1. Some sleeve patterns call for an easing of the back seam into the front seam at the elbow to help create elbow room, maybe your pattern has this?

    1. I thought of that, too, but it's the forearm seam on the front seam that is short and it doesn't seem right. I'd expect a different distribution of the length difference across the sleeve's shape if it was to be eased; as it is, it's all in the forearm, the straight seam, not the elbow curves that I'd be matching up.

      But now that you brought it back to my attention, I'll do mockups of both versions, the original with easing and an altered one with prolonged front seam in the forearm, and see what it does.